BASIC BULL RIDING QUIZ - ANSWERS
1) Which hand is best to ride with?
A. Your strongest arm hand
B. Your dominate hand
C. Your non-dominate hand
D. The hand opposite of the one you feel the best holding up for your free hand
E. Doesn’t matter since you can go back and forth
F. Either hand is fine
Answer: Strength is the worst reason to make a decision. You can get in shape to condition your weaker arm if you are serious about competition.
“Old school” says to always ride with your non-dominate hand but history has proven that to be far from what successful guys do. In fact, it’s split pretty evenly. I even know multiple brother teams that were both same hand dominate but one had a successful career with his dominate hand down and the other an equally successful career with his non-dominate hand down.
It’s not a bad way to go by walking on a rail or narrow platform and trying to walk with your right hand up and then your left. Which ever way “feels” best for balance is a good way to go... making that hand your balance or free hand and holding on with the other.
I do believe that you could learn to ride with either hand but jumping back and forth wastes time and is confusing when you are learning. You end up wasting more time going back and forth than you do learning the proper and important riding techniques/skills. Pick one and stick with it. IF you have an injury that forces you to change you can continue using the foundation you’ve built with the other hand.
The correct answer to question # 1 is: Either hand is fine. Just select one and stay with it.
2) Which spur offset (the amount the shank turns in toward the bull) is the best for bull riding?
A. The more offset the better
B. Very little offset as you need to learn to turn your toes out
C. It depends which side you buck off of most
D. It depends if you spur bulls or not
E. It depends how much you turn your toes out
F. 15 degrees offset
G. 22 1/2 degrees offset
H. 35 Degrees offset
I. 45 Degrees offset
Answer: Selecting the right spur depends on how natural you are at turning your toes out. There is no magic spur offset. Any dedicated athlete will train to increase his range of motion and how well he can turn his toes out. That skill will not only enhance his ability to use the spurs as an important tool, but it will enhance the look and score of his ride.
Some bull riders even use a different offset on each foot to compensate for what they do better with one foot than the other. If there’s a difference you’ll likely find that you turn your riding hand foot out better than the free hand foot. Continue to work on that skill but select the spur or spurs that fit you best right now with your riding and change as appropriate.
Again, the correct answer to question # 2 is: It depends on how much you turn your toes out.
3. What is the best length of shank for bull riding spurs?
A. The longer the better to get more hold on the bull
B. Short shanks allow you to keep your feet in the bull better
C. 2” shank
D. 2 1/4” shank
E. 2 1/2” shank
F. None of the above
Answer: Too long a shank will cause your foot to bounce and twist in a negative way. Too short of a shank will make it harder to get your spurs into the bull to help hold on.
The two most common shanks are the 2” and 2 1/4”. “Old School” says the taller you are use the longer shank, the shorter you are use the shorter shank. In reality most good bull riders today all use the 2 1/4” shank regardless of their height.
Again, the answer to question # 3 is: 2 1/4” Shank is the optimum length, and most used by top competitors.
4. Which spur straps are best for bull riding?
A. Any spur strap will work fine
B. The 1” roller buckle style is best
C. Lighter spur straps are best as they are less bulky so you can move your feet better and faster.
D. Heavier spur straps are best as the weight helps keep your feet down
E. Nylon spur straps are best because they are strong and light weight
F. Any of the above
Answer: The problem with thin and light spur straps is that they break too easily when they get pressure on them. That happens when a bull bucks in the chute or drags your foot down the gate or corner post coming out of the bucking chute.
Nylon spur straps are fine but not magic. I’m good with leather or nylon as long as they are 1” wide for comfort and strength and have the roller buckle design that runs through a roller on the inside and buckles on the outside of your foot.
The answer to question #4 is: The 1” roller buckle style is best
5. What rowels are best for bull riding?
A. The basic 5 point, conventional rowel
B. The rowel that gets for the most grab is best
C. The wider the rowel the better
D. The more expensive the rowel the better
E. The rowel used by the most contestants around me is best
F. Any rowels will work fine
Answer: There is no magic rowel. Guys spend endless dollars seeking the magic rowel only to find, if they do some serious research, that the big time bull riders really aren’t using the latest gimmick rowels as the advertising leads you to assume.
Most times,too much hold is a very bad thing. If one foot is in and holding on, and the other is not, you’ll find that you are getting jerked into the foot that’s in the bull and having little or no success getting the other spur back in the bull because you are pulled too far into your locked foot. Also,you will never be able to spur bulls with radical rowels because you can’t get “drag” with them. They grab and hang and don’t allow for smooth transition. That often makes it difficult to even learn to shuffle or move your feet when they are out of position. What sounds like a good thing will actually work against you.
If you check out what the majority of champions have been using you’ll find it’s a very basic rowel. The champions like Adriano Moreas and Mike Lee wouldn’t even discuss the rowel thing at their schools because it is such a non-issue. Learning correct techniques is what is most important. Gimmicks, which the fancy rowels are, won’t help you get the whistle.
Correct Answer to question # 5: The basic 5 point conventional rowel. It will let you get a hold and still allow you to spur bulls and to shuffle your feet when needed.
6. What is the best height for a bull rider?
A. Taller is better because you have more leverage
B. Shorter is better because your center of gravity is lower
C. 5’ 7” is the ideal height for a bull rider
D. 5’ 8” is the ideal height for a bull rider
E. 5’ 9” is the ideal height for a bull rider
F. None of the above
Opinions vary but the reality is that champions come in all heights. Besides, you can’t change your height so learn to ride with the techniques and skills that allow you to maximize the things you can do well and to stay away from the things that are your weakness.
Correct Answer to question # 6 is: None of the above. The best height for you is what you are!
7. What is the best weight for a bull rider?
A. 135 pounds
B. 145 pounds
C. 155 pounds
D. 165 pounds
E. 175 pounds
F. Lighter is best because you can move better light
G. Heavier is best because weight slows the bull down slightly
I. It’s different for every bull rider
Answer: There is no perfect or ideal weight for everyone. It’s about YOU being in the best physical condition you can be in. Whatever weight that is will be what you deal with.
The answer to # 7 is: It’s different for every bull rider. What’s your perfect physical condition and weight. That’s all that matters in your competitive efforts.
8. What weight of chaps is best for bull riding?
A. Lighter so they don’t pull you off center
B. Heavier so they provide more protection
C. Any weight will work well
D. It depends on your height and weight
E. It depends on the trim, fringe, and design
F. None of the above
Answer: Each athlete will have his ideal chap design, trim, and leather weight. In many ways there’s no perfect choice here... but, too light and they tear up easily in a very physical event, and too heavy and they could be a distraction for you but that’s not likely once you are down on your bull in the bucking chute. In addition, the heavier they are the more protection they provide in the chute and once off in the arena.
Again, the answer to question # 8: Heavier is better because they’ll resist damage better and provide the most protection in the bucking chute and when you hit the ground after your ride.
9. What are the best boots for bull riding?
A. Ropers because the low heel will help prevent ankle injury
B. Custom Competition Boots
C. Any boot will do fine
D. It depends on your riding style
E. Lighter boots are best
F. Heavier boots are best
Answer: Ropers have horrible heel counters... the area where you spurs fit. They don’t provide protection if the bull runs you down the bucking chute or steps on your heel. The soft heel counter allows for much more extensive and frequent damage to your heel and ankle. They also break down faster and then your spur will sit off center and out of line so the spur design is made dysfunctional in multiple ways.
Most stock boots have that same problem with the heel counters being soft. For most applications it’s just not important. For rodeo it matters a great deal. Only modified stock boots or the custom competition boots (like we carry on our web site) will have the reinforced heel counters and be designed for the action and abuse of bull riding. They are a comfortable weight and look great as well, both bonus factors in competition.
Correct answer to question # 9: Custom Competition Boots are the only ones that meet the demands of the sport right out of the box.
10. Which aspect of conditioning is most important for bull riding?
A. Strength
B. Flexibility
C. Endurance
D. Weight Control
E. Ab conditioning
F. All of the above
G. Physical conditioning isn’t that important for bull riding since it’s only 8 seconds
Answer: Physical conditioning is critical for any athlete to ever maximize his ability in this sport. You may be a very natural and gifted bull rider but not being in shape will lend itself to increased injuries and missed opportunities along the way.
The correct answer to question #10: All of the above. Any balanced conditioning program will include training for strength, flexibility, endurance, and weight management. All of those build around your core muscle group, your abs. They are the very most essential to not neglect... and the fastest to see results with too.
11. Which is the best attitude/temperament for bull riding?
A. Aggressive
B. Calm
C. Cautious
D. Eager
E. All of the above
F. None of the above
Answer: In a competitive sport that also brings in an elevated risk factor like bull riding you need to have emotion management. That means respecting the risk, passionate training to prepare for it, and the ability to control your emotions in the midst of conflict in he bucking chute and the many crisis challenges that happen in the arena.
The correct answer to question # 11 is: All of the above. You want to be focused and aggressive but still in total control of your emotions to take advantage of every opportunity and manage every obstacle as it comes your way.
12. Which Bull Rope plait is best for the tail?
A. 5 plait
B. 7 plait
C. 9 plait
D. A or B
E. It’s a matter of personal choice
Answer: Championships have been won with all different plaits but it’s a very common practice today for leading bull riders to use either the 5 or 7 plait tails. They are much easier to squeeze into the handle and to hold on to.
Again, the correct Answer to # 12 is: A or B. The 5 or 7 plait is way easier on your hand and easier to hold on to without the “Split Finger Wrap” and a ton of sticky saddle soap and rosin.
13. Which Bull rope plait is best for the Handle?
A. 5 plait
B. 7 plait
C. 9 plait
D. It’s a matter of personal choice
Answer to question # 13 is: The 5 and 7 plaits are great for your rope tail but far too soft for a strong handle. Most quality rope builders will NOT guarantee the 5 or 7 to not roll over. There is no way to get the softer plaits to hold up regardless of how much lace or how tight the lacing is put in the handle/hand hold.
Correct answer to question # 13 is: 9 plait. It’s the only one that will hold up and help prevent the common hang up problems.
14. What is the best lacing choicer for a Bull Rope?
A. Half Lace
B. Full Lace
C. All Skip Lace
D. No lace at all
E. Full/Skip Lace Combination
F. Any of the above is fine
Answer: A and E are the best choices. The all skip lace doesn’t allow for a sturdy handle and the full lace tends to lock the rider into their riding hand. It’s especially a problem on bulls going away from your riding hand. The full lace is still very popular in high school and minor league bull riding. I would guess that it’s the mentality that more must be better. Maybe in some cases but not here. A few pro bull riders continue to use the Half Lace, which is not a bad choice. They simple want the relief when they need to pry on the handle on bulls going away from their hand. The full/skip lace is the best of both worlds... great flexibility and a safe and solid handle.
Best answer to question # 14: Full/Skip Lace Combination is the most common and best choice handle lacing for good bull riders. You have support and flexibility in the perfect balance with this choice.
15. Which is the best length for a bull rope?
A. Standard Length
B. An extra foot on the tail
C. An extra foot on the body
D. Both B & C
E. Any of the Above
F. Depends on what size bulls you are getting on
Answer: Guys have some strange ideas out there. Many order “options” just because they are there without even a bad theory to go on. Even in professional competition you can get on bulls from 1200 pounds to over a ton. That means you need a rope that will fit all of them.
Adding extra length to the body can create a problem on the smaller bulls. Since you always adjust the rope to pull with the loop the same distance from the handle on your rope there’s no point to having extra length added to the tail. The higher the loop pulls up toward the handle the harder it is for the bull to get the tail jerked out of your riding hand. That make extra tail length unreasonable.
Save your money and put it in options that can matter... like the “Magnum” base under the handle for comfort and stability, or even the “Big Block” to give even more stability beyond the already great “Pro Block”, or possibly a “Cross Stitched Body” if you feel you have trouble keeping your rope straight and untwisted.
Best answer to question # 15 is: Standard Length. The standard length bull rope is designed to fit and adjust to all sizes of bulls.
16. What is the best age to start riding?
A. 6 years old
B. 8 years old
C. preteen
D. teen years
E. Early Adult
F. Middle Age and Mature Adult
G. Any of the above
H. None of the above
Answer: You can argue that starting too young risks burn out and critical injuries to under developed athletes.
Obviously it’s difficult to start a professional sports career when you are a middle aged adult... although rodeo and bull riding offer options not available in other sports.
There’s controlled competition at both the youth level and in the Senior Pro Tour events... ages 40 and above.
PBR finalists have started their bull riding careers as late as 28 years old and others I know won Sr. Pro Tour titles several years after they thought they were done with the sport. They had a blast with it.
In the end, starting where you are is the most reasonable choice. You can’t change your age, with the exception of waiting around to get older I guess.
Answer to question # 16 is: None of the above. The best age to start at is the one you are when you determine you want to pursue the sport!
17. Where is the best part of the country/world to be from for a bull rider?
A. Texas
B. California
C. The midwest
D. The eastern states
E. Brazil
F. Canada
G. Mexico
H. Any of the above.
Answer: We now have champions from all over the U.S. and the world. The traditional mentality that the only true bull riders were from Texas is distant history. We have world champions for the inner city areas of California, the country area of North Carolina, and multiple champions from Canada and Brazil.
It’s about how you ride, not where you get your mail or where you were born and raised.
Correct answer to question # 17 is: Any of the above. If you can ride you’ll do fine in the sport of bull riding. Some areas may offer more competition and stronger bulls but you can travel and grow from anywhere.
18. What is the best mouth guard to wear with a helmet?
A. Any will do
B. You don’t need one with a helmet
C. “Brain Pad” Lo-Pro
D. None of the Above
E. Any of the above
F. Other
Answer to question # 18 is: Many different ones are used today and most of the better ones all give good protection for your teeth. Only the “Brain Pad”, Lo-Pro model was developed to help reduce concussions. You can fix teeth, even though it’s not fun and is expensive. Trauma to your brain can be a career ender.
For the record, impact anywhere on a helmet transfers the energy to the chin strap, sending it right to the TMJ that gives the brain the jolt that causes K.O.’s and the more serious brain trauma. The high end mouth guard may be even more critical with a helmet than without.
The answer to question # 18 is: The “Brain Pad” Lo-Pro model
19. What is the best simulated training available?
A. A stationary barrel on the ground
B. A 4 post bucking barrel
C. Might Bucky
D. The Leffew Trainer
E. The “Il Toro” bull riding training unit
F. Any of the above
G. Other
Answer: There are lot’s of creative tools out there designed to help your bull riding. Each one’s success depends on how well you are trained and how perfect you make your training sessions with that training tool... but, some are better than others.
The worst is the traditional bucking barrel. Because it can and will do things that no bull will or can do, it gets you to do things that will cause you problems riding actual bulls. We can tell in about two minutes when we have a kid that’s been using a bucking barrel to learn to ride. It’s then a process of total relearning and retraining to break the bad habits and build positive ones.
Other training units are much better and each may have different strengths or weaknesses. Used correctly you can benefit from many of them out there... but again, some are better than others.
SANKEY RODEO SCHOOLS has always been committed to using the very best equipment possible in our training. Today it’s the “Il Toro” bull riding training unit. It is the lightest and most portable unit out there on the market so you will take it with you to the practice pen and competitive events to warm up and review after your rides. It’s shaped like a bull so it adds to the mental effort and visualization training for future successful rides. There’s a tough body with no expensive cover to trash or have to replace and, unlike most units out there, you CAN use your spurs for a more realistic training if you wish. It has the most realistic roll and return to center action of any unit in history, and it can be ordered and used with a portable X-Frame base or the standard mounting base that is set solid in the ground for increased action from the unit.
The answer to question # 19 is the “Il Toro” bull riding training unit. In 35 years of doing the rodeo schools this is the most complete and effective training unit we’ve ever used... even over the mega expensive and high maintenance hydraulic units.
20. What is the most important thing to get better as a bull rider?
A. Getting on bulls in competition
B. Getting on bulls in the practice pen
C. Practice on a training unit
D. Mental practice
E. B and D
F. All of the Above
Answer: Competition will take you to a level the practice pen alone can’t do. In the practice pen you can and should be selective about what you get on. You want to create success and challenge whatever you need to be working on most.
Training units are great as long as you “practice perfect”. Incorrect practice reinforces future failure.
Mental practice is only as good as your training and the information you have. Again, incorrect mental rehearsal will condition you for future failurethe same way incorrect physical practice does.
Best answer to question # 20 is: All of the Above. If you train perfectly then you can grow in the practice pen and with your mental and training unit practice. You’ll find competition brings out your best and shows you what you need to mature in, with your other practice and training efforts.
21. What is the primary cause of hang ups in bull riding?
A. Bucking off away from your hand
B. Poorly made bull rope
C. Worn out bull rope
D. B and C
E. Too much rosin
F. A “Suicide” wrap
G. None of the above
Answer: A lack of education will get you all kinds of answers here.
Obviously you have to buck off away from your riding hand for hang ups to happen... but that won’t always create one.
Poorly built ropes, worn out ropes, a split finger wrap, also known as the“suicide” wrap, (without the experience to ride most of the bulls that would buck others off away from their riding hand), and obscene rosining efforts that would have your rope stick to the fence if you threw it against it, can all contribute to hang ups.
Primary answer to question # 21 is: B & C. If you have a quality rope in good condition and use a reasonable amount of rosin you’ll see that hang ups simply don’t happen... at least not frequently.
I hope you enjoyed taking the BASIC BULL RIDING QUIZ and reading over my answers here. Let me know if you have other questions not covered in this quiz. I’ll be happy to help answer them for you.
For more information on our rodeo schools and discount pro rodeo equipment continue to checkout our web site or contact me:
Phone: (417) 263-7777
Address: Lyle Sankey
% Sankey Rodeo Schools
3943 Sycamore Church Road
Branson, MO 65616-8110
